TAL Charger Paddle Replacement

Last Updated October 17, 2017

Here we describe our experience and procedure for replacing the paddle on a TAL charger. Thanks to Darell Dickey for his TAL Paddle Replacement page.

Tools required:

  • Security Torx screwdriver or bit (TR-20)
  • Phillips screwdrivers
  • Needle nose pliers
  • At least one 4x4 or equivalent for standing unit up
  • Small zip ties
  • Band-aids (optional, depending on skill level)

Ready to begin work, we placed the charger on 4x4's to make it easier to lift and turn, which happens a lot during this process.

Remove the three screws from the blue side panel. These should be TR-20 Security Torx screws. Note they are not the same as regular Torx screws; they have a pin in the center, so the screwdriver tip or bit needs to have a hole in the center.

Remove the seven screws and the brass plate over the side compartment. Note that the upper right screw, as shown in the photo above, has a spacer.

Stand the unit up. We used a 4x4 to lift it off the ground and protect the cables. Note that the screws holding the upper cover (described below) have already been removed in the photo below.

Inside the side compartment are two connectors, one white (on the left) and one black (on the right). Disconnect both, then tuck the two cables into the unit so they will be out of the way when you slide the outer cover off.

The upper, lighter gray, cover is held in place by two screws at the bottom of each side, for a total of four more Security Torx screws. Remove them. Also remove the 2 or 4 M6 bolts on the back of the upper cover.

Once all the screws are removed, double check that the cables in the side compartment are tucked inside and out of the way, then carefully lift the upper cover off.

The rest of the work to remove the paddle will be easier with the unit on its back.

Remove the two Phillips screws from the inner upper shield.

On the other side of the shields are two plastic posts. They remain in place.

With the two screws off, lift that side of the upper shield up and over the unit, then wiggle it off of the two posts.

Remove the two screws from the lower shield, one on each side, slide it toward the top of the unit then off.

The photo below shows the communications board. It has three screws along the bottom and may have one in each corner on the top. The leftmost connector along the top attaches wires that go into the paddle cable.

One of our units was missing the mounting piece in that corner, and instead had a zip tie through that mounting hole to secure the paddle cable wires. We cut the tie to free the wires.

Unplug the connector in the upper left corner of the communications board.

Behind the communications board is another paddle cable wire that needs to be disconnected. Remove the screws from the communications board then gently unplug it from the connector that attaches it to another circuit board. This will reveal the indicated brown wire and its brass connector.

Using needle nose pliers, gently unplug the metal connector on the end of the brown wire from the brass connector. Below, the brown wire is loose, showing the brass post it was connected to.

We now move on to the power wires. There are two white wires twisted together and joined with a single ring connector, and two corresponding black wires. The two pairs of power wires are twisted together to run through a black tube (a choke to reduce radio frequency noise inside the box).

Disconnect the two power wire pairs from the board.

Looking into the bottom of the unit, you can see the two power wires emerging from the back of the RF choke, then routing down and left to join the rest of the paddle cable wires.

On the bottom of the unit, you'll find a plate that secures the paddle cable.

Remove the four screws to free the paddle cable. At this point, you can remove the cable. The small wires are loose, but the power wire pairs need to be fed through the RF choke and slowly pulled out and around to exit through the opening.

With the old paddle cable removed, we're now ready to install the replacement.

You may need to mount the replacement cable to the plate by removing the large hex nut from the inside of the old plate and moving the plate and nut to the new cable.

Removing the power wires was a little challenging. Getting the wires from the replacement cable back into the unit, around the corners and through the RF choke is quite difficult. After much trial and error, we found a method that worked well.

Twist the wires in each pair, then twist the two pairs together. Use a small zip tie to hold the two ring connectors together with the tail oriented forward. Feed it all into the case, around the corner, and into the choke with the tail of the zip tie leading. Grab the end of the tie from the end of the choke with needle nose pliers and carefully pull the wires through while feeding from the back end.

Secure the cable mounting plate to the bottom of the case with the four screws.

Connect the two power wire pairs and the brown wire. Reinstall the communications board and attach the four-wire connector. Reinstall the two shields.

Before putting the outer cover back on, be sure to tuck the holster cables out of harm's way.

To finish the installation, continue undoing the previous steps in reverse order.

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